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19 Jan 2012 | The extra space gained by an annexe with walls and screen doors means more time enjoying the great outdoors. Here's how to get there.

BACK IN THE DAYS when Holden Kingswoods and Viscount caravans reigned supreme on our roads, I remember dragging a heavy canvas awning down from roof-mounted sail track. This was followed by setting out the poles and ropes, and hooking the equally heavy walls to the awning. In addition to often playing hell with your back, this wasn’t exactly a speedy process.

Even with modern designs, properly setting up an annexe can still be something of a tricky process, but this step-by-step guide will hopefully make things a little easier. The job itself should take around 15 minutes.

Retractable awnings and their instant shade and weather protection (from companies such as Fiamma, Aussie Traveller and Dometic) have undoubtedly improved things no end for RVers. But companies like Kakadu and Australia Wide Annexes have taken things a step further. These companies also design and supply walls, screens, doors and extensions that considerably improve living space – a real boon for travelling families.

Kakadu’s Bruce Anderson recently invited me along to his company’s factory in Currumbin, Qld, to see a new annexe going up for caravanners Dave and Val Hobbs. The couple was getting a demonstration at the factory, rather than a van park or campsite, because Dave has some difficulties walking and lifting heavy items and wanted a few expert tips for easy assembly.

STEP BY STEP


01 The awning – in this case a Dometic A&E – should be fully opened and tensioned up using the roof rafters, which are fitted by using plastic clips on the van and spigot holes in the roller tube of the awning.


02 It’s helpful to lay the walls out before fitting. Here the roof rafter is fitted into the gable sleeve of the end wall.


03 Attach the end walls to the caravan by sliding the wall edge up the sail track. Applying silicone spray to the sail track makes this process a bit easier.


04 With the ends in position, the roof rafters can be tensioned up and the walls attached to the draught sheet.


05 Like the end walls, the side walls are laid out before being run along the slot in the roller tube. Again, silicone spray can be used to ease things along. (Although side walls are usually a single piece, in this case they were split in two to make things easier for the owner.)


06 Once all walls are in position, they are zipped together at the corners (and the middle in this case).


07 All poles can be fitted into the roller tube holes and velcro-strapped to the walls.


08 The doors can now be zipped in position as required. One tip from the Kakadu team is to roll the doors inward – this keeps things neat and prevents rain from gathering in the externally rolled door.


09 Once you have set out the wall mudflaps and laid out the floor matting above them, connect the end walls to the awning with the “stayputs”.


10 At a campsite, you would now be pegging out the annexe walls – but this proved a little hard to do on the concrete.

WORDS AND PICS Malcolm Street
Source: Caravan World Oct 2011

More tips and tricks

Comments (15)
Comment by Unknown
posted 9 days ago
Always make sure you have a waterproof ground sheet especially if your on a large slab, otherwise the water just rolls in on top of the slab,try to get a site where th slab is inside the annex walls.
Comment by Unknown
posted 22 days ago
I think that the doors in the end walls would be better, you won't get as wet if it is raining. Side doors make you walk straight into the neighbour's van too. The awning legs would be better straight to the ground and roped with pegs. To leave the legs back to the van it would have to be extended to it maximum reeach and may loose a lot of strength. Our Tebb's walls have got a zipped top triangle wedge that makes it a lot easier to erect, rather than one peice.
Thanks for the tip of the insert, I will call Tebbs to see if I can get them fitted to mine
Comment by Unknown
posted 28 days ago
All, too true, we have a small step less than a foot high to get up on, as we can't drag a ladder around. And we like to bring out the side arms to use as corner poles as they were intended, but keeping them on the wall of the van does make it stronger in a big wind.
Comment by Unknown
posted 29 days ago
We did a 7 week trip from Sydney to Darwin and down through the middle to Adelade and back home.Travelling with our, dare I say, 5 star only daughter in our pop top caravan that has been fitted with this brand of annexe. Our daughter set up house in the annexe each night and was very comfie cosy. By the end of the trip we had set up from unhitching to putting the kettle on down to 30 minutes.The stay puts would have been very handy at some site and this will be on our shopping list. The silcone spray is a must.We have a 2 step plastic set of steps that is fine for reaching the high spots.
Comment by Unknown
posted 29 days ago
When getting an annex made you have to ask the manufacturer to allow for a 8ft pad at caravan parks, I have done this and all annexes have worked okay, they put a little gusset in each corner, mine are Tebbs annexes
Comment by Unknown
posted 29 days ago
The end walls of the Kakadu annexe that I have are tapered outwards so that the base is wider than the awning and will usually extend past the edge of a concrete pad to enable pegging. Where this not quite enough, extension tie downs (rubber rings cut from a car inner tube) can be threaded through the wall eyelets and stretched out far enough to be secured with pegs. If these still do not reach, the rings can be joined together, end on end, until they are long enough. A 2 step step ladder costs about $20.00, fits easily into the van boot, and is essential for short guys like me when erecting the annexe.
Comment by Unknown
posted 29 days ago
Annexes are generally the width and length of the awning on the caravan, and hence are all much the same width, while caravan park concrete pads vary somewhat in width and significantly in length. Most pads, however, are reasonably close to the width of the awning. Most annexes are designed to accomodate normal pad widths provided that your van wheels are within a few inches of the pad. More importantly, annexe lengths are dependent on the awning length, and these vary enormously. Caravan park concrete pads are made to the length that the park owners at the time decide - and hence will inevitably be too short or too long for any particular caravan. You can solve the 'pad-too-long' problem by carrying an extending tent ridge-pole (needs to extend to about 3 metres), and pin this to the ground with tent pegs each side of the concrete pad, then tie the bottom of the annex end wall to this pole. We carry two poles, one for each end as our annex is shorter than average. Another solution is to use a length of rope tied to tent pegs at each side of the concrete pad and tie the annex end wall to the rope. When we use either of these two solutions I always releive the strain (caused by wind)on the annex end by tying the end "window" cover down with 'ocky straps'. cheers Ken
Comment by Unknown
posted 29 days ago
Unless staying put for at least a month would not even consider going to the expense or trouble of owning an annex. Far too much trouble. They're heavy and bulky to transport and you can't help but feel sorry for people packing them up when wet (you see it all the time). We'll stick to our slide in/velcro shades!
Comment by Unknown
posted 29 days ago
It should be noted that a lot of annexes have the doors on the ends and require the legs to be seperated from the van and secured vertically. In these cases a velcro strap is used to hold the annexe against the leg.

Regards,
John-Wagin W.A.
Comment by Unknown
posted 29 days ago
Seems simple, but a lot of instruction missing.
Comment by Unknown
posted 1 month ago
Not carrying a step ladder with us around the block, we have to drive the ute up to the van to reach the pegs at the top of the annexe!
No slots on our van, only 4 little pegs running vertically on the two walls. Also no internal poles, we use a few ropes to help stablise the whole thing and have withstood some pretty horrible weather :-)
Comment by Unknown
posted 1 month ago
great tips included in this item.the one about the silicone spray is a ripper!
Comment by Unknown
posted 1 month ago
Why do you leave the end poles attached to the caravan and not straight up on the ground?
Comment by Unknown
posted 1 month ago
Point 10: exactly, when are annexe manufacturers going to address the fact that nost caravan parks provide concrete pads next to the caravan. Can,t fix the annexe base and how do you stop the walls blowing in with anything more than a light breeze?
Comment by Unknown
posted 1 month ago
Dave you may end up like many of us. All was fine until photo 9. Is it just me or does the need to stand on a step ladder to finish the rigging make this a total waste of time, money amd effort and just not going to happen.

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Thursday, 23 February 2012